Between Highland Cows and Fairies: Our Journey Through Scotland
Three weeks through the Highlands, to the Isle of Skye and to dream beaches in the north
Three weeks through the Highlands, to the Isle of Skye and to dream beaches in the north
For three weeks, Nele explored Scotland by rental car – over countless winding single-track roads, past seemingly more sheep than people, and right into some of the most impressive landscapes she has ever seen. Nele wanted one thing above all: to see as much of the country's nature as possible. She succeeded more than well.
In the end, Scotland clearly exceeded her expectations – with dramatic mountain landscapes, white sandy beaches that would be more suited for the Caribbean, and of course the Highland cows that couldn't be missed on any stage.
Edinburgh – The Perfect Start
Our journey began in Edinburgh, and the city has since become one of our favorites in all of Europe. Historical yet vibrantly alive, with small alleys where there's something to discover at every corner.
The most beautiful part was simply wandering through the old town without a fixed destination. Circus Lane with its small houses is one of our favorite spots – it almost feels as if time has stood still there.
In the evening, we went to one of the countless pubs: eating something, having a cider, and letting the day wind down. That's really all you need in Scotland. A highlight in itself was the sunset from Calton Hill, with one of the most beautiful views over the city.
Glencoe – First Highland Moments
From Edinburgh, we headed towards Glencoe, and the journey there was already an experience. On the way, we had to stop by a farm – we absolutely wanted to see Highland cows. They truly became one of the highlights of the entire trip.
The first kilometers into the Highlands feel like a transition into another world: The roads become narrower, towering mountains grow to the sky on both sides, and endless green valleys lie in between.
In Glencoe, our first hike was to the Lost Valley – scenically impressive and with a rather sad story in the background that makes the place feel different. We also didn’t miss a detour to the natural pools of the area and went swimming in an estimated 15 degrees Celsius water temperature – a decision we briefly regretted at first. But swimming in the midst of nature, with a view of the mountains, was definitely worth it.
Fort William – Ben Nevis and Hogwarts Express
Next, we went to Fort William, where Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain, was on the agenda. We didn’t make it all the way to the top, but we did get to the lake about halfway – which still counts for us.
And of course, as Harry Potter fans, we couldn’t miss a stop at the Glenfinnan Viaduct. It didn’t take us to Hogwarts, but the picture of the Hogwarts Express viaduct against the backdrop of Loch Shiel remains unforgettable.
Isle of Skye – Our Personal Highlight
After that, we headed to the Isle of Skye – clearly the highlight of the entire trip for us. The island is incredibly diverse in terms of landscape, and we did two of our most beautiful hikes there.
For the first one, we got up at 4 in the morning to experience the sunrise at the Old Man of Storr. The early wake-up call was more than worth it: the sky and landscape slowly turned orange, and fog drifted through the rock formations – creating an almost mystical atmosphere. At that hour, we were nearly alone on the trail.
Our second hike was the Quiraing, a round trip of about three hours. Here too, the landscape is hardly graspable: bizarre rock formations everywhere, behind which lies the vastness of the Isle of Skye. By the way, sheep were a constant companion on every hike – you really see them everywhere in Scotland, in fields, along paths, and often right in the middle of the trail.
One should also not miss the Fairy Pools on Skye: natural pools and small waterfalls in the landscape, definitely worth a visit.
Isle of Lewis – Caribbean Feeling in the North
Our second to last stop was the Isle of Lewis, and suddenly Scotland looked completely different. The green Highlands gave way to a starker, rockier landscape – and in between lay the most beautiful beaches of the whole trip.
White sand, crystal clear water, turquoise bays: that there are such beaches in Scotland was one of the biggest surprises of the trip for us. With a bit of luck with the weather, a true beach vacation can actually be spent here.
Inverness – In Search of Nessie
Our last stop was Inverness. And of course, we didn’t want to leave Scotland without at least having the chance to spot Nessie.
Did we actually see her? That remains our little secret.
After three weeks, we can say: Scotland has definitely exceeded our expectations. Especially the nature is incredibly versatile – from green Highlands to dramatic mountain landscapes and fog-covered rock formations to white sandy beaches and crystal clear water, you see something completely different here almost every day.
Scotland is a destination for anyone who enjoys being outdoors and loves hiking and nature. Those who are mainly looking for cities and classic sightseeing are probably better off elsewhere – for us, it was just right.
We were also quite lucky with the weather. In Scotland, the weather can change completely within minutes – sun, rain, wind, and fog seem to alternate several times a day. But somehow, that’s part of Scotland.
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